How To Turn A Bowl Without A Chuck Youtube
Bowl tenon removal is one of the last steps to finishing a wood bowl. After a properly formed tenon has done its job, its no longer needed and must to be removed from the before longhoped-for-finished bowl.
Depending on the last bowl foot pattern, some of the tenon areas may become incorporated in the bowl base. The amount of bachelor material virtually the base of operations of the basin will also determine how much of the tenon stays or goes.
Typically, the jaws of the four jaw chuck will marker upwards the sides of a tenon, making it noticeable if the tenon is left intact. Cleaning up the side of the tenon should be considered at a minimum, even if y'all don't plan on removing the total tenon.
Here are three easy bowl tenon removal methods to consider when finishing your bowls.
Three Bowl Tenon Removal Methods
1) Jam Chuck
The jam-chuck bowl tenon removal method is the easiest but does not allow total access to the bowl bottom while on the lathe. The jam-chuck tenon removal method is as well the cheapest route because no additional accessories are needed.
If you're turning a bowl without a chuck, a jam chuck can even be created without a four jaw chuck if desired. Mount a scrap block or cylinder of wood to a faceplate and mount it to the lathe.
If yous already take a waste product block with a tenon, re-adhere the block to the 4 jaw chuck and smooth the outside confront and sides. I besides like to make a rounded edge forth the front edge to foreclose whatever marks on the inside of the mounted basin.
Making a Jam
If yous don't have a previous waste block, then you volition need to form a custom jam chuck from chip timber. Beginning past turning a slice of wood into a short cylinder that is approximately half the diameter of the bowl interior.
The new jam chuck can exist turned end to end with a tenon shaped on one end to fit in the 4 jaw chuck. Another pick is to use a dedicated faceplate and attach the woods to the lathe with a faceplate first then shape the forest into a cylinder. The faceplate method does non crave the use of a four jaw chuck.
I prefer to brand jam chucks with tenons because they are and then much easier to reuse and change out with a four jaw chuck. This technique also makes information technology easy to have several different sized jam chucks at the ready for various sized and shaped bowls.
These are the basic steps for making a jam chuck. For a more detailed explanation of making jam chucks, check out this article next.
Jamming the Bowl
Here are the steps to mounting the basin to the lathe for tenon removal using a jam chuck.
- Mountain the shaped jam-chuck on the lathe.
- Prepare the tailstock with a live center quill.
- Position the banjo about midway on the lathe bed rails.
- Place a slice of bit foam or carpeting padding between the jam chuck face and the basin interior.
- Concur the bowl firmly against the jam chuck.
- Slide the tailstock upwards to the basin bottom.
- Lock the tailstock and move the quill forward.
- Friction match the quill tip to the small center indent made while creating the tenon.
- Tighten the tailstock on the bowl.
- Rotate the bowl by hand while mark any loftier spots near the too rest.
- Loosen the tailstock a bit and shift the bowl to make it more centered.
- Tighten the tailstock.
- Turn the lathe on depression and make a pencil tick on the tenon.
- If the mark goes all the way effectually the bowl is centered.
- If the pencil only marks a particular area of the tenon, stop the lathe and move the center of the pencil line expanse slightly inward towards the quill.
- Remark the tenon with the pencil and adjust until the basin is centered.
It is time to begin the process of bowl tenon removal in one case the bowl is centered as best every bit possible in the jam chuck.
Making the Cuts
Position the banjo under the tenon and make the tool remainder parallel to the tenon base. The right end of the tool rest should exist very shut to the tailstock live center quill. Lower the rest merely a scrap so the bowl gouge cutting tip will be on center.
I had an experience during a bowl tenon removal in one case when I had the tool rest a piddling below centre, and the tailstock wasn't tight enough. My bowl gouge simultaneously became a pry bar and a ramp. The gouge, being too low, pried and popped the tenon off the lathe. With the bowl's forward rotation, the bowl shot right up my tool and bounced off my face up shield.
Thank goodness for that face shield. I took quite a dial, but nothing was cut or broken. Now I'm super careful to center the cutting tool and tighten the tailstock on every bowl I make. It was a skillful lesson learned…the hard way! Ha.
Wear your safety gear! Here is my recommended safe equipment guide.
Shaping the Base
Brand shallow cut passes across the tenon with your bowl gouge. I utilize my 1/2" Basin Gouge for this task and I make pushing cuts towards the tenon middle.
If you haven't already decided, now is the time to determine what kind of bowl base you're creating. Be careful not to remove also much tenon textile, exit enough to shape the desired base of operations.
Many times I exit a gentle outside curve leading to the base of operations rim. Ordinarily, I'll make clean this up a bit and and then lucifer the interior of the bowl base with a similar inward concave path to the basin center.
I like first to square up the bottom edge of the base using my 1/ii" bowl gouge. With the bottom edge clean and foursquare its easier to come across exactly what will be removed and from where.
With the outside of the bowl base of operations already shaped and the bowl base lesser square, I and so make scooping push cuts to remove the center expanse. I try to brand light cuts and work slowly.
Measuring Thickness
It is important to know there is enough bowl thickness to be working with at the bowl base. Unfortunately, with the basin mounted in a jam chuck and centered, information technology is a troublesome process to unmount the bowl, measure the thickness of the base, and and then remount the bowl.
Measuring the bowl beforehand can be washed, but it's difficult to calculate what will remain after working the majority of the tenon. I typically match the bowl base of operations to the side walls and try non to brand the eye bowl base protrude deeper than the surrounding area.
I'd like to say that will work every time simply to be honest, I have made a couple of basin bottoms very very thin, like transparent thin. 🙂
If the interior bowl shape is a fluid bend then the outside walls will also have a fluid bend, which continues through the bowl bottom. Similar and so much in forest basin turning this too volition go second nature with a lilliputian practise.
Bowl Tenon Removal Cone
A connecting cylindrical shaft remains from the alive tailstock middle to the bowl while trimming and forming the bowl base of operations. With the bowl base virtually complete, it'southward time to focus on this cylinder.
With small-scale nibbles, work from top to lesser reducing the cylinder until information technology begins to expect like a cone pointing into the basin.
It's a good idea to stop the lathe and inspect the cylinder/cone for any defects. If the woods in this area has any cracks, bawl enclosure, or anything that makes it look insecure, stop turning now. Remove the bowl and chisel or sand away the remaining woods heart stub.
If the cylinder or cone shaped surface area looks similar solid wood with no voids or cracks, continue trimming the cylinder down to a small cone. Practice not cut through the cone with the lathe turning. Simply, get the portion of wood that remains on the tenon cylinder downwardly to the smallest size without detaching the bowl.
With the lathe off and the cone every bit small equally possible, there are a couple of ways to remove the remaining nub of the bowl. Utilize a modest Japanese pull saw to cutting through the cone base if the cone volition not break off by hand. A pull saw is an excellent tool for so many tasks in the store.
Once the cone is off the bowl lesser, a small-scale nub volition remain. A precipitous chisel can exist carefully used to remove the remaining core and level the bowl lesser. Also, sanding volition ordinarily accomplish the aforementioned task.
For a complete guide on sanding, read Bowl Sand Tools and Stop Techniques.
Using my power sanding drill and cream sanding pad, I normally sand off the remains nub. A sanding disk at 120 or 180 dust sandpaper or sanding mesh works well. I'll so stop the expanse with 220 and 320 grit earlier applying a finish. Here are is my recommended sanding equipment guide.
ii) Rim Mounted Bowl Tenon Removal Method
Special chuck jaws are bachelor for reverse mounting a bowl rim which leaves the bowl tenon surface area open up and accessible for easy turning. Large work jaws are designed to easily attach to the four jaw chuck I recommend using.
With the large piece of work jaws mounted to the four jaw chuck, the rubber supporting nubs need to exist positioned to suit the item basin size being turned. There are numerous holes for adjusting and all-around nigh any size of bowl inside the jaws' range.
Initially, it is proficient practice to pull upward the tailstock for back up and to ostend everything is polish and balanced. One time the forest chuck and jaws stability is confirmed, the tailstock tin move out of the way.
With the bowl is secure, position the tool rest and remove the tenon and shape the bowl base. Information technology really is that unproblematic.
The only downside to these large work holding jaws is they don't hold irregularly shaped bowls very well. Equally I turn many natural edge bowls, I don't use this technique in my turning process. Still, if yous make bowls with even rims, this can be an splendid solution.
three) Vacuum Chuck Basin Tenon Removal
The vacuum-chuck basin tenon removal method is similar a magic trick that I never become tired of using. When I beginning heard of this, I idea at that place is no way that could work. Well, it does work and very well.
Before I purchased my Hold Fast three″ Vacuum Chuck Kit 1-1/4″ x 8 TPI (also bachelor with i" x 8 connection) I was very curious as to how this contraption would work. It turns out to exist super unproblematic and very efficient.
The simply thing needed, too the vacuum chuck kit is an air compressor. I employ a small Porter Cable Air Compressor (bank check Amazon for the current price), and this air compressor is more than enough to maintain vacuum as I turn.
A hollow threaded shaft fits through the headstock and is tightened on with a rubber sealed nut at the headstock. At the rear of the headstock, a bearing connects to a pocket-sized hose, and the hose runs to a regulator. That regulator has a connection for the airline from the air compressor. That's about all there is to it.
Once the airline is in identify, the plastic and safe seal lined chuck screws onto the headstock threads, and the system is ready to use. Place a basin upwards to the chuck, plough the compressor valve switch on the regulator and "voila" the basin holds in identify similar magic!
The tailstock can be used to line up the bowl bottom using the small-scale center tick created when the tenon was first shaped. With the bowl centered and the vacuum holding the bowl, remove the tailstock and brainstorm turning.
You will want to brand low-cal cuts and lookout the regulator gauge occasionally as yous turn to maintain proper vacuum.
Remove the tenon and class the base every bit y'all'd like, complimentary of any obstructions. Hold the bowl when it is complete and turn off the regulator and the bowl drops to your hand.
This system worked so well that I went back and purchased the half dozen" Vacuum Head 1-1/four″ x 8 TPI which lets me vacuum attach larger bowls now.
The company that makes this vacuum chuck also makes an ingenious tool to help center the bowl correctly on the vacuum chuck. The Hold Fast Chuck Reversing Adapter i-one/four″ x eight TPI – MT2 (and i" 10 eight version) is a device that allows the unabridged chuck and bowl to be removed from the headstock once the bowl interior is complete. The reversing adapter slides into the hollow tailstock center then the iv jaw chuck, with bowl attached, is threaded onto the reversing adapter.
When the vacuum chuck is installed on the lathe using this reversing adapter, the tailstock, at present property the basin, tin be slid towards the headstock until the basin touches the vacuum chuck.
Because the tailstock is centered with the headstock, the basin if perfectly centered on the vacuum chuck. Vacuum is applied, and the bowl can then release from the iv jaw chuck. The reversing adapter and tailstock can be moved out of the mode. Its a super simple and perfect manner to center the bowl every time.
Whether you decide to use the jam chucking, large work property jaws, or the vacuum-bowl tenon removal method, tenon removal is not all that difficult.
Bowl tenon removal is relatively straightforward but tin can make the difference between a good bowl and a truly elegant piece of woodturning. Take your time with removing the tenon and forming the base, and the results will speak for themselves.
Let me know if yous use 1 of these bowl tenon removal methods or if you have another manner to finish the base of operations of your bowls. Please leave a comment beneath.
Hither's more Tenon knowledge just waiting for you:
• Forest Bowl MORTISE OR TENON – WHICH IS All-time?
• five WORST TENON SHAPE Woods Basin (Pes, SPIGOT, Adhere)
• Basin TENON – CREATE PERFECT SECURE WOOD Bowl Human foot
Happy Turning,
Kent
Source: https://turnawoodbowl.com/wood-bowl-tenon-removal-3-easy-ways/
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